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- The Webley-Scott Tempest
- webley tempest origin/age YET ANOTHER WEBLEY POST
- Webley Tempest Barrel Assembly Part No. T - John Knibbs International Ltd
- The Webley Tempest
Spring air guns are quieter than CO2 or pump-type airguns. The cocking force is high enough that my wife has trouble cocking it, but I'm sure she would find it easy if she did it enough. Most small kids would find it impossible to cock, which could be an advantage if you have small fry. Loading is EASY, as the pellet is merely inserted into the breech while the barrel is up for cocking.
I have big fingers and find some airguns hard to load. I can shoot sub 1" groups at 25 feet, using a one-handed hold. The Tempest has a definite preference for Beeman round-nose pellets, although other Beeman pellets, as well as Crosman, RWS and Daisy brands work well too.
I can hit the miniature airgun silhouette targets at 25 to 30 feet well enough to compete wth my nine-year old while she shoots a rifle. The sights on the Tempest adjust by loosening a screw and sliding them, which would be a pain if you had to do it a lot. I have found a setting which is acceptabley accurate from 20 to 50 feet.
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The point of aim does not change much over time, nor does it change much with pellet selection. The bottom line is that you can get a cheaper or more accurate airgun, but you would sacrifice power and convienient size to do it. You could also spend a LOT more. The size and reliability of the Tempest, and the fact that it does not use CO2 cartridges, makes it a good choice for camp plinking or keeping around the house for pest control.
It is my preferred gun for camping, vacation and business trips. You can take an airgun almost anywhere.
Having been around longer than any of its competitors, the Tempest has traditionally been the first serious air pistol for most British shooters- the one you moved up to from the GAT. Paradoxically enough, given its popularity, the Tempest is not a particularly accurate gun, or a particularly pleasant gun to shoot.
The Webley-Scott Tempest
Newer Tempests have a factory-supplied wider trigger. Cocking is difficult, given the peculiar folded air path design, and getting the barrel to lock up the same way every shot is problematic. So why is it that the gun still sells well today, even with so many more accurate, cheaper guns around? I could say, like some, that its inaccuracy, clumsiness, and reverse recoil make it a good firerarms trainer for basement practice. The real attraction of the Tempest is precisely that it is such a difficult, fussy, and eccentric gun- in other words, and quintissentially English gun, brought to you by the makers of the Webley-Fosberry Automatic Revolver, and, for that matter, the same nation that gave us Monty Python, Cricket, and great eccentrics like Lord Rokeby, who endevored to spend his entire life floating in water.
Every time I pick up my Tempest, I am reminded of Great Britain, and all her eccentricities, and her many charms. Long may she prosper. The Tempest was discontinued, owing to costs of production in the UK, but it was brought back as a gun manufactured by Hatsan in Turkey. Not quite the same same gun, but unless you can find a used one, the only way to get one today.
webley tempest origin/age YET ANOTHER WEBLEY POST
My problem is that I accidentally pulled the trigger with the gun cocked half open. What can I do? Also an original boxed very very very good condition original Gat Gun, complete with original pellets, darts and corks missing one cork from box. Email to richvorn aol. Anyone interested in buying my Webley Tempest. I bought it brand new when i was just a kid approx 30 yrs ago.
I love this gun and have cared for this gun thru the years. It has had only about rounds put thru it so everything works mint on it, and comes with the original holster. It has been put away for many years in my closet and i have no use for it now. I have a Tempest. The original oiling instructions show the exploded view which is fairly meaningless to me.
Mine gets the occasional wipedown with a few drops of a polarized oil like Birchwood Casey Sheath on the exposed metal parts, like the barrel, to protect it from rusting. Never, ever, use petroleum oils on an air gun! If the gun loses power, you can try adding a few drops of silicone oil- no other lube! Generally spring guns should NOT be lubricated in normal use. After maybe 50, or more shots, if performance falls off they should be disassembled, the seals replaced if necessary, and the piston and cylinder lubricated with a small amount of a moly and silicone grease.
I leave that gun and some of my high-end spring air rifles to experts. Most spring air guns require no service in normal use for many years.
Webley Tempest Barrel Assembly Part No. T - John Knibbs International Ltd
I just had my 20 year old Theoben Sirocco rebuilt. My old TX, which I used to compete regularly with in the mids, is currently being used by a friend a sold it to. Bought at garage sale. To service, use a punch to push out the pins that hold the trigger parts in and the fore-end on. Take note of the position of the trigger parts, note how the trigger spring fits behind the trigger guard.
Slide off the trigger guard and the plastic fore-end, push out the pin holding the metal plug in the fore-end of the cylinder.
The Webley Tempest
This will free the barrel, and as the pin comes all the way out, the plug and the spring will come free as well. Slide the barrel linkage out of the cocking slot, and the pistol is mostly stripped. Clean the parts as best you can. I find motorcycle Chain Wax aerosols good for spring lube, just spray it on quite liberally and you will find that it dampens out twang quite nicely. I put a little moly grease on the ends of the spring too. All the pivot points like the pin at the fore-end that the barrel hinges on will benefit from Moly GN paste rubbed in.
Cocking will also be a lot smoother if you apply GN paste to the cocking slot and in the small t-shaped link that goes through the slot.
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Also, put some GN paste on the fulcrum, this is the bump near the barrel-hinge that the cocking link slides over as you cock it. The trigger is pretty easy to strip and reassemble and does benefit a lot from being treated with moly paste, you just need to push out the pins in the trigger guard first, then the pins that the trigger parts turn on, then all the trigger parts come out through the slot in the underside of the trigger housing, but do pay attention to their orientation and the position of the small spring that is held in place by the front of the trigger guard, maybe draw a diagram, this will help when reassembling the trigger.
Put Moly paste in the holes in the trigger parts and on the pins that they pivot on.